Vietnam Cruise
A three-day cruise through Vietnam's most celebrated seascape reveals both the majesty of nature and the complexities of modern tourism*
When you're already in Hanoi, the three-hour drive to Ha Long Bay presents an opportunity that's simply too compelling to ignore. This UNESCO World Heritage site, with its legendary limestone karsts rising from emerald waters, has been drawing travellers for decades. Yet as any seasoned explorer knows, the challenge lies not in deciding whether to go, but in choosing how to experience it properly.
The online booking process for Ha Long Bay cruises can overwhelm even the most experienced traveller. Day trips, overnight packages, two-night adventures—the options multiply endlessly, each promising the definitive Ha Long experience. After considerable deliberation, we opted for the three-day, two-night cruise aboard the Hermes, essentially two single-night cruises joined together.
This extended itinerary would allow us the luxury of time—something we've learnt to value more with each passing year. A word of caution for fellow travellers: scrutinise what's included in your package. Some cruises bundle transfers; others leave you to navigate the logistics independently.
Our luxurious coach pickup proved a pleasant surprise—spacious enough that even with legs fully extended, the seat ahead remained comfortably out of reach. The mandatory halfway stop at a tourist emporium, however, felt less inspired. Despite prices that seemed anything but bargain-friendly, the food court drew the majority of business from the twenty-plus coaches disgorging passengers into this commercial waystation. Arriving at Ha Long Bay's marina, we were escorted to the Hermes lounge for check-in—a civilised touch that set expectations for the experience ahead.
Yet the approach to this natural wonder proved unexpectedly sobering. Acre upon acre of half-finished and abandoned buildings stretched across the landscape, stark reminders of Vietnam's property development bubble that burst in the early 2010s. What should have been a triumphant gateway to one of the world's great natural spectacles instead told the story of over-ambitious construction projects that ran out of funding when economic realities shifted.
Once aboard the Hermes, however, such concerns quickly faded. The seafood buffet lunch lived up to its billing in spectacular fashion: baked oysters, prawns, squid, fish in batter, clams, and a seafood soup that captured the essence of the bay itself. This wasn't tourist-friendly approximation of local cuisine—this was the real thing prepared with the kind of attention to detail that separates memorable meals from mere sustenance.
The afternoon offered choices between swimming, kayaking, or simply relaxing aboard. With threatening skies suggesting rain, we chose the latter, retreating to our cabin for some well-earned downtime. A minor frustration emerged when attempting to navigate the television—all instructions appeared in French, and despite searching, no crew member seemed available to assist. Such small inconveniences, we've learnt, are part of the authentic travel experience.
The following morning brought an intriguing logistical ballet. Whilst the Hermes returned to collect new overnight passengers, we transferred to what the crew termed a 'day boat'—a vessel accommodating roughly fifty guests from various cruise ships. This floating consolidation took us deeper into Ha Long Bay, to an island an hour's journey from the main tourist areas. Here, the bay revealed its true character. Kayaking through hidden lagoons, swimming in waters that have remained largely unchanged for millennia, and exploring cave systems carved by countless centuries of tidal action—these experiences reminded us why Ha Long Bay earned its UNESCO designation.
The pearl farm visit proved particularly fascinating, a joint Vietnamese-Japanese venture where we witnessed technicians implanting oysters with shell particles that would, over time, become lustrous pearls. Watching this delicate process unfold offered insights into both traditional craftsmanship and modern aquaculture techniques.
Our final morning included an early exploration of another cave system before rejoining the Hermes for brunch during our return journey. The timing felt perfect—enough adventure to satisfy, but not so much as to exhaust.
The Hermes itself deserves particular mention. Built in 2023, this vessel distinguishes itself with dual outdoor swimming pools—a rarity in the Ha Long Bay fleet. The eighteen cabins range from comfortable 28-square-metre accommodations to the impressive 64-square-metre Presidential Suite, complete with spa bath, circular bed, and a 29-square-metre private deck featuring its own jacuzzi.
But it's the culinary programme that truly sets the Hermes apart. One evening's menu exemplified their commitment to excellence: grilled Ha Long oysters with coconut milk sauce, cream of mushroom soup with smoked ham and garlic bread, pan-fried sea bass with lemon butter sauce, grilled beef in fresh bamboo with peanut sauce, and banana flambé with vanilla ice cream. Their claim to employ 'the best chefs in Ha Long Bay' isn't mere marketing hyperbole—it's demonstrably accurate.
The Seasoned Traveller's Verdict:
Ha Long Bay remains essential viewing for anyone visiting northern Vietnam. Despite the unfortunate development scars around the marina, once you're on the water, the bay's natural magnificence asserts itself completely. The three-day cruise format provides the ideal balance—enough time to truly appreciate the scenery without the restlessness that shorter trips can induce.
For fellow seasoned travellers, the Hermes offers the kind of thoughtful luxury that enhances rather than overwhelms the natural experience. Yes, you'll pay premium prices, but the combination of genuine comfort, exceptional cuisine, and professional service justifies the investment.
Just remember to pack patience for the inevitable tourist shop stops, and perhaps brush up on your French if you plan to master the cabin entertainment system. [ Tip: A smartphone translation feature via your camera can assist with this. Ed.]
